Happy Friday friends,
I returned last week from a wonderful tour of Colombia, where I visited the cities of Bogota, Barranquilla and Cartagena. I enjoyed exploring the country's sights, sounds and tastes with a group of travel professionals, who were each invited (like me) to learn about Colombia as a touristic destination.
I sought to research whether Colombia would be a suitable place to host a future Wheelchair Travel Group Trip. While the country's transportation providers do not yet have vehicles to serve a group of wheelchair users, there is capacity to support individual travelers and families. I will do a deep dive on the state of tourism in Colombia in a future article, but for now, enjoy a few highlights from my trip!
Tasting Strange Fruits in Colombia
One of the most popular attractions in Bogota, Colombia is the bustling Paloquemao Market, the city's largest traditional food and flower market. There, I found nearly a thousand stalls supplying fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood and flowers.
When I saw a fruit tasting on the schedule, I assumed we would be enjoying traditional fruits like melons, berries and bananas. Instead, I was introduced to a lineup of exotic fruits that excited the senses and expanded my perspective.
Most memorable were the yellow pitaya, an extra-sweet dragon fruit variety, and the surprisingly and delightfully sour Lulo, which transformed my face into an emoji. 😖 Our fruit tasting was organized by the wonderful Maria at 321 Colombia.
La Candelaria, Plaza Bolívar and a Bronze Statue
Too often, I find myself rushing to a meeting, to a dinner reservation or to the next attraction and I fail to stop to "smell the roses" and experience what surrounds me. In Bogota, but especially in neighborhoods like La Candelaria, even the most focused travelers will be forced to open their eyes to the vibrancy of life.
Nowhere is that vibrancy more apparent than in the Plaza de Bolívar, the city's central square, where the institutions of Colombian life converge — the halls of government, the Roman Catholic Cathedral, street vendors hawking their wares and the thousands of pigeons drawn to the tourists who feed them.
From the plaza, Calle 11 runs alongside the cathedral toward attractions like the Botero Museum, lined the whole way with vendors peddling souvenirs, fresh fruit, ice cream and cold drinks. The sounds of the street, the vendors calling out, the buskers' musical notes and the hundreds of voices in conversation, make it impossible to walk or roll with your head down.
I took a break from the city's buzz in the thoughtfully designed Bogota Museum (MdB), which focuses on documenting the city's history, urban development and the everyday lives of its people. The museum inhabits multiple colonial buildings which date to the 17th and 18th centuries, all made wheelchair accessible with ramps and an elevator.
A bronze statue within one of the museum's inner courtyards caught my attention — the subject's right hand appeared amputated like my own, so I posed to capture a light-hearted photo.
That statue, I soon learned, had a controversial past — it depicts Spanish conquistador Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, the explorer credited with the discovery of modern day Colombia. In 2021, amid nationwide anti-government demonstrations, indigenous Misak protesters toppled the statue, resulting in the "amputation" which first drew my attention. A student of history, I was inspired to learn more, so I ordered a copy of Invading Colombia: Spanish Accounts of the Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada Expedition of Conquest, which I hope to read on my next flight.
Boarding Stairs, Boarding Ramps and Jet Bridges
I departed Colombia from the City of Cartagena, and I was excited to add the Rafael Núñez International Airport (CTG) as my 157th airport used as a wheelchair user. The airport feels small — it has just one runway and a terminal with no jet bridges, but it is served by more than 20 airlines, including KLM Royal Dutch Airlines with a Boeing 787.
I booked an American Airlines flight from Cartagena to Miami. Check-in went smoothly and the staff were kind enough, but when I went to board the aircraft, I was met by a set of stairs. The American Airlines team insisted that I be lifted up the stairs while seated on an aisle chair.
"No, not a chance," I said. There is no circumstance in which a disabled passenger should be carried up the stairs to board any commercial jetliner, much less one operated by a U.S. carrier. I am not willing to jeopardize life and (my one remaining) limb to board a flight!
I asked to speak with a Complaint Resolution Official (CRO) and, while I waited for her to arrive, boarding was opened to all passengers — my right to preboard the aircraft had been denied. The CRO, who identified herself as American's station manager, told me that "this is how we do it here." I maintained my position and refused to consent to being carried up the stairs.
Carrying disabled passengers up the stairs is unsafe, but it was also unnecessary — there were multiple aircraft boarding ramps at the airport. When I pointed to one such ramp at the adjacent stand, I was told that "those belong to other airlines...we only have the stairs."
My refusal to fly encouraged action — after a few phone calls, the American Airlines team received approval to use a ramp owned by Delta Air Lines. After all passengers (except me) had boarded, the stairs were pulled away and the ramp was positioned into place. Delta, often regarded as being one of the Best U.S. Airlines for Wheelchair Users, saved the day!
I advocate for greater accessibility across the travel industry — in planes, trains and automobiles — and I could really use your help. Please consider upgrading your membership to support my work. Every member matters, and I need you on the team!
While I was ultimately able to board via a ramp, it was only because I was unafraid to demand an accessible alternative. My experience raises important questions — Why does American Airlines think it is acceptable to carry people up the stairs? Why has the airline not invested in ramps or lifts to safely board disabled passengers? Why are wheelchair users expected to risk their safety just to fly?
I am clearly late to this issue, but it now has my attention — all airlines, but especially U.S. carriers, should have access to (and use) boarding ramps at every airport where they operate. Physically lifting passengers up a set of airstairs is unacceptable, and it is a practice that must end. Expect to hear more from me on this issue soon.
Coming Soon: Spring 2027 Wheelchair Travel Group Trip to Greece!
I have taken four groups of travelers to Greece over the past two years and it has become my favorite tour. From rolling up to the Acropolis and the Temple of Poseidon to sharing a cooking class and wine tastings beneath Mount Olympus, this tour blends ancient wonders with unforgettable group experiences. Best of all, every detail is designed to be barrier-free.
The 2027 tour is scheduled to take place from April 30 to May 10, 2027 and I want you to join me for this immersive journey through Greek history, art, architecture, culture and gastronomy!
The complete tour itinerary will be released on Monday, August 10 at 10:00 a.m. ET (New York time), exclusively to paid members of this newsletter. Paid members will have a private booking window of 3 days. If spaces remain, bookings will be opened to free subscribers on Thursday, August 13.
If you would like to be among the first to receive this trip opportunity and future information about accessible group tours, please upgrade your subscription in advance of the tour release.
Final Thoughts
After spending more than a week in South America, there is a lot to catch up on, and a trove of new stories to share! Be on the lookout for some exciting articles covering the beaches and trails I discovered along the Colombian coastline, as well as some tips for making a solo trip possible.
I hope you have a fantastic weekend, and I look forward to catching you with a new series of articles next week!
Take care,
— John
